The Classic Pieced
Pineapple
Stitch a traditional favorite using quick methods.
The popular Pineapple block is an old quilt pattern dating from the late
1800s. Antique examples are often seen pieced from wools and silks. The design begins with
a center square which is pieced into a larger square by adding triangles and stripes in
rounds. Because of the manner in which it is pieced, the block is akin to the Log Cabin
block. Like a Log Cabin, the number of rounds can vary. You can also have some creative
fun by shadowing the block.
Because there are many bias edges in a Pineapple block, it requires careful handling
during sewing and pressing in order to prevent stretching and ensure an accurate block.
Various construction methods such as foundation piecing can be used to keep the block
true. A special tool by authors and pattern designers Nancy Smith and Lynda Milligan
called the Pineapple Rule provides several guidelines for achieving accuracy in every
block while you use quick rotary cutting techniques to make them. Their instructions and
tips follow for using the tool to make "Pineapple," a quilt which appears in
their book House Warmers. It's composed of large 17" blocks and makes use of
lots of different fabrics. A block is pieced by stitching eight rounds of strips to a
center square. If you prefer, use the Alternate Method for squaring the blocks without the
tool. It requires a bit more skill because it provides fewer guidelines.

Pineapple Quilt
©1998 by Nancy Smith and Lynda Milligan
QUILT SIZE: 51" x 68"
BLOCK SIZE: 17"
MATERIALS
Yardage is estimated for 44" fabric. Cut crossgrain selvage-to-selvage strips.
- 1/3 yard dark print or solid for center squares
- 1/4 yard each of 30 to 35 medium to dark prints for "logs"
- 5/8 yard dark print or solid for binding
- 3 1/2 yards backing fabric
- 57" x 74" piece of batting
CUTTING
All dimensions include a 1/4" seam allowance.
- Cut 12: 4" squares, dark print or solid, for the centers
- Cut 85: 2 1/2" x 44" strips, assorted medium to dark prints for the logs
- Cut 10: 3" x 44" strips, assorted medium to dark prints for Round 8 (the
corners)
- Cut 7: 2 1/2" x 44" strips, dark print or solid for the binding
DIRECTIONS
Use an accurate 1/4" seam allowance throughout.
For Round 1 of each Pineapple block:
- Mark diagonal lines from corner to corner on the wrong side of a 4" dark print
center square.
- Choose 4 different 2 1/2"-wide fabric strips. Cut a 4"-long segment from each.
Stitch segments to opposite sides of the 4" center square. Stitch segments to the
remaining sides.
- Press seam allowances away from the center square, taking care to avoid stretching

- Lay the Pineapple Rule on the wrong side of the block with the vertical line at the
center of the ruler aligned with one of the marked lines on the fabric center square and
the ruler's inside diagonal lines on top of two seamlines. While one of the horizontal
lines on the ruler may not fall exactly on the other marked line, check to see that it is
parallel to it. Once all of the guidelines are correctly aligned, trim off the two
triangles of fabric that extend beyond the ruler at a corner. Repeat at the remaining
corners of the block to make a center unit.

For Round 2:
Cut four different 5 1/2"-long segments from the 2 1/2"-wide
strips. Center and stitch these to the block the same way you did in Round 1. They will be
slightly longer than necessary. Press seam allowances toward the outside of the block, as
before.
Draw lines from corner to corner on the wrong side of the center unit,
keeping a right angle at the center.

Lay the ruler on the wrong side of the block as before, lining up the
inside diagonal lines on the seamlines and using the vertical line at the center and one
of the horizontal lines on the ruler as guidelines for the marked lines. Trim corners, as
shown. Repeat on the remaining corners.

For Round 3:

Line up the edge of the ruler with the edge of the fabric strip in Round
2. Align the center, horizontal and diagonal guidelines on the ruler with the seamlines
and marked lines, as before. Trim. (HINT: Try to use the same horizontal
guide for each side of every block.)

HINT: To allow for a slight variance in seam
allowances, excessive pressing or minor stretching, you may need to trim or extend an edge
in order to follow all of the guidelines. To do this, move the ruler up or down, away from
the edge of the previous round or onto it, in order to match the guidelines. Trimming or
extending an edge is a way to compensate so all blocks remain square and equal. The
diagram illustrates extending an edge.

For Round 4:


For Rounds 5-7:
For Round 8 (block corners):

Alternate Method
Use a large square rotary cutting ruler to trim the blocks. After sewing
strips for Round 1, place the ruler on the wrong side of the block with the 1/4" mark
at the intersection of two seamlines. Trim the strips 1/4" from the intersection at
each corner to make the center unit. It should measure 5 3/8" square. Trim the strips
for Round 2 in the same manner, making a unit that measures 7 1/2" square.
For Rounds 3-7, work from the right side of the block. Place the ruler's 2
1/4" mark on the seamline of a strip. Align the 45º mark on the ruler with the
diagonal of the center unit. the horizontal and vertical lines on the ruler should be
parallel to the edges of the center unit. Trim along the edge of the ruler. Repeat to trim
the remaining strips in a round. Use a corner of the ruler to trim Round 8.
Nancy Smith and Lynda Milligan have worked together to run their quilt shop, Great
American Quilt Factory, for 17 years. As partners in Possibilities®, they have published
more than 35 books. Ask for their products and about their trunk show at your local quilt
shop or visit their website at www.possibilitiesquilt.com
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