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Flannel Tidbits

Get tips for working with flannel and make a warm fuzzy quilt.

by Cyndi Hershey

Cyndi Hershey used the Sister's Choice block to make "Flannel Fever" (42 1/2" x 56 1/2"). Cyndi recommends choosing quilt blocks that utilize simple shapes such as squares and rectangles when working with flannels.  A link for the pattern to this cozy quilt is found below.

Cotton flannel is different in several ways from the broad-cloth weight cotton with which most quilters are familiar.  High quality cotton fabric has an average thread count between 68 to 78 threads per inch.  The higher the thread count, the finer the hand of the fabric.  Since the base cloth used for flannel is woven from heavier yarns, the thread count may be as low as 30 or 40 threads per inch.  In other words, the heavier the yarn used to weave the cloth, the looser the weave will be.  This is the reason that flannel sometimes stretches during handling.  Flannel is napped to create it's fuzzy finish by mechanically picking up fibers from the surface with large rollers that have many tiny hooks.  These hooks lift the fibers and create the fuzz.  The amount of nap on flannel is determined by how many times the fabric does through this process.

Double napped flannel is the thickest, softest flannel because it is napped on both sides of the cloth.  Why are some flannels thinner with less nap?  Some flannels are only passed through the napping machine once or twice and are only napped on a single side.  Most quilters can tell a better grade of flannel from a lesser grade by sight or by touch.  While you may pay more for a better piece of fabric, your quilt will be softer, warmer and more durable if made from the best flannel you can buy. 

Brushed cotton is sometimes put into the category of flannel although it isn't exactly the same thing.  Brushed cottons are commonly grouped with homespun and other woven plaids in quilt shops.  Even though it may appear to be similar to flannel, it features a higher thread count in the base fabric and only one side is brushed, leaving the reverse side to appear as a regular woven fabric.  Brushed cotton can readily be integrated into a project using flannel depending on the look you desire for your quilt.

Because of the looser weave and lower thread count, flannel may have more shrinkage when laundered than other cotton fabrics, usually between 4% to 7%.  Therefore, I suggest you buy a little extra fabric.  Pre-washing flannels before cutting pieces from the yardage will eliminate a lot of cutting errors, tightens the weave of the fabric, and raises the nap, making it softer.  Use cool water and a little laundry soap or Orvus paste to pre-wash flannels in your washer. Do not overload the machine. Make sure there is enough water for the fabric to float in and use the gentle cycle. Do not use fabric softener as it relaxes the fabric too much and makes it more difficult to handle during construction.  Dry in an automatic dryer set on low heat until damp-dry or hand the flannel out to dry  Depending on the amount of wrinkling after drying, you may wish to iron your fabric.  If ironing flattens the nap, be assured it will come back after laundering, or you can use a soft brush to lift it.

Easy quilt patterns with chunky pieces are best for flannel quilts.  Look for blocks with simple shapes like squares or triangles.  Designs that can be constructed with strip piecing techniques such as Double Irish Chain are ideal.  More complicated blocks such as Storm at Sea or Mariner's Compass are not good choices for a flannel quilt because these patterns have narrow points and lots of pieces.  Plus, simple patterns make quilt construction go more quickly.  My favorite thread for construction is 100% cotton.  I use it for both the top and bobbin threads.  My personal opinion is that polyester or cotton/poly threads are too strong and may cut through the soft flannel yarns at some time in the future.  Pins play a critical part in the stitching process because flannel has a tendency to creep while sewing.  Many quilters prefer to use a walking foot or other even-feed system on the sewing machine to keep fabric layers from shifting.  Press flannel with a hot, dry iron.  The moisture from steam relaxes the weave, making it possible to distort the quilt blocks while pressing.  I do not like to use spray sizing or starch with flannel because it flattens the nap until the quilt is washed  Clean out your sewing machine frequently!  Flannel produces lots of lint that can cause multiple problems in the mechanism of your sewing machine.

Any 100% cotton fabric (flannel, homespun, or other fabric) is fine for your quilt backing.  You may prefer one over the other.  Some quilters feel that a flannel backing tends to be too slippery for machine quilting.  Some prefer homespuns or broadcloth for more stability.  If you choose to machine quilt your flannel quilt, take the extra time required to adequately pin- or hand-baste the quilt sandwich.  Flannel usually requires heavy basting with plenty of pins.  Setting the stitch length longer than normal will help stitches lay on the surface of the quilt, making the quilting slightly more obvious.  Because of the extra thickness added by the nap, hand quilting is usually not recommended for flannel quilts.  In fact hand stitch tend to disappear into the nap and don't show clearly.  "Big Stitch" methods may be the exception to this guideline.  "Big Stitch" combines #8 perle cotton with a large needle for stitches that measure about 1/4" in length.  This technique produces a rustic, primitive look that can be quite effective on flannel quilts.  Flannel quilts are also good candidates for tying. 

Batting for a flannel quilt may not be necessary.  For a lighter weight quilt, use a flannel backing and omit the batting.  Or you may choose to use a lightweight cotton batting or Hobbs Thermore™ polyester batting.  Both of these battings resist fiber migration (bearding).  I suggest that you avoid other polyester batting is combined with the looser weave of flannels.  Simple, straight-line patterns and gentle curves are the best choice for quilting patterns.  Use of a walking foot is best when quilting on flannel.  Binding the quilt with flannel can make the edge quite bulky.  As a result, some quilters prefer to use homespun or broadcloth cotton for that purpose. 

If you enjoy the warm, homey feeling of curling up in a flannel quilt, you'll certainly enjoy the simplicity of making your version of my quilt "Flannel Fever." Follow the guidelines I've provided here and you'll find it's very easy to make a quilt your family will enjoy for many winters.

Click here for the pattern to "Flannel Fever" and start to use your newly-learned flannel skills!

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