Quilt Shop

Quilt Gallery
Town Hall
Visitor's Center
 

chitrahead.gif (11590 bytes)

Quilting "How-To" Class

stitch.gif (1513 bytes)

 Free Block Patterns | Free Quilt Patterns | Quilting "How-To" Class | Patterns, Corrections & Quilting Designs | Quilt Shop Directory Wholesale Inquiries | Home

stitch.gif (1513 bytes)
Hand Quilting Basics

by Debra Feece and Nancy Roberts

An old adage says "Practice makes perfect." In educational circles, this saying has been amended to "Prefect practice makes perfect." The premise of this revised version is that knowing correct methods is important so that practice does not consist of making the same mistake over and over.

When it comes to the quilting stitch, your stitches will indeed improve the more quilting you do. However, thinking through the steps in hand quilting and perfecting each one will speed up your progress. Once you know the correct method, practicing it "perfectly" will increase your success.

Rather than a specific number of stitches per inch, your goal in hand quilting should be to make even, consistent stitches. The method used by most hand quilters to achieve this is known as the rocking stitch. Let's look at hand quilting in a hoop step by step.

  • For practice, cut two pieces of unbleached muslin and one of thin batting large enough to fit in a hoop. Mark the right side of one piece of muslin with four or five straight lines spaced about 1" apart. Place the batting between the two layers of muslin.
  • Place these layers on top of the inside ring of the hoop. Because of the size of the squares used in a practice piece, it isn't necessary to baste the layers to secure them as you would a quilting project. Place the outer ring of the hoop (the one with the wing nut or tension control) on top and ease the ring down to fit, keeping the layers smooth and free of pleats or puckers around the hoop.
  • Tighten the hoop using the wing nut or other tension control. The layers should be taut but not stretched tight in the hoop.

Diagram 1

  • Assemble other necessary supplies - a needle, thread, thimble and scissors. Most quilters like to use "betweens." These short needles come in sizes #8 to #12, with #12 being the finest and shortest. It also usually has the smallest eye. Start with #9 or #10. You can always try another size later, as you learn what tools are most comfortable for you. You may also wish to add a needle threader to your supplies.
  • Use cotton or poly-covered cotton thread designated as quilting thread. For your practice piece, you may wish to use a dark, contrasting thread to see your stitches easily. Thread the needle by inserting the end of the thread through the eye while the thread is still on the spool. This helps prevent fraying, which makes threading difficult. Cut a 17" length of thread and make a small knot in the end that you cut from the spool.
  • Sit in a comfortable chair with the hoop held in your non-quilting hand and supported in your lap. Place a well-fitting thimble on the middle finger of your quilting hand. When you let your hand hang down at your side and move it slightly, the thimble should remain on the finger but not feel constricting.
Start with one stitch at a time
  • Insert the threaded needle through the top layer and into the batting about 1/2" away from one of the marked practice lines. Slip the needle through the batting until the tip reaches the beginning of the marked line. Guide the needle up through the muslin at this point. Pull the needle and thread until the knot lies on top of the muslin at the insertion point.

Diagram 2

  • Tug the needle to force the knot through the muslin so that it becomes buried in the batting. This is called "popping" the knot. You may find that using the thumbnail of your non-quilting hand to apply some pressure on the fabric near the knot helps it pop through more easily.
  • Place your underneath hand beneath the layers where you'll begin quilting. Position the needle about 1/8" from the starting point so that it is perpendicular to the muslin, placing the thimble at the eye-end of the needle and using the dimples in the thimble to "grip" and balance the needle. Hold the needle gently between your thumb and forefinger. Then insert the tip of the needle straight down through all layers, until you can just feel the tip with your underneath hand (usually on the pad of your index or middle finger).

Diagram 3

  • When you feel the tip, release the needle and use the thimble to rock the eye of the needle down so the needle lies parallel to the marked line and the tip of the needle moves up.
  • At the same time, press down on the layers with the thumb of your quilting hand slightly ahead of the insertion point and press up slightly on the layers with the underneath finger. This will create a "hill" in the fabric layers.

Diagram 4

  • Put pressure on the eye-end of the needle with the thimble to guide the needle tip up through all three layers on the marked line and at the top of the hill.
  • Keeping pressure on the needle with the thimble, use the thumb of your quilting hand to push the hill and work the needle through the layers far enough so that you can grip it between the thumb and forefinger of the quilting hand.

Diagram 5

  • Remove the thimble from the needle, releasing pressure, and move the thumb and forefinger to the shank of the needle. Use them to pull the needle and thread through.
  • Tug slightly to secure the stitch and cause it to lie down into the fibers of the muslin. However, don't pull so tight that the thread gets buried. This creates too much tension on the thread and can give the quilting an undesirable puckered look.

Diagram 6

Increase your speed
Once you have mastered the steps for making one stitch at a time, you're ready to take three to four stitches on the needle at a time to increase your speed.
  • Follow the steps previously outlined, except do not push the hill to work the needle through the fabric layers far enough to grip it between the thumb and forefinger of the quilting hand. Instead, leave just the tip exposed at the top of the hill. With the thimble still on the eye-end of the needle, rock the thimble straight up so that the needle is perpendicular to the quilt layers again. Guide the needle tip down through the three layers until you can feel it with the underneath hand, as before.
  • When you feel the tip, use the thimble to rock the needle down so it again lies parallel to the marked line. At the same time, press down on the layers with the quilting hand and up with the underneath finger to make a hill as before.
  • Use the thimble to put pressure on the eye end of the needle and guide the tip up through all three layers on the marked line at the top of the hill. Leaving the tip exposed, rock the needle down and make a third stitch in the same manner.
  • After the third stitch, keep pressure on the needle with the thimble and use the thumb of your quilting hand to push the hill, working the needle through the layers far enough to grip it as before.

Diagram 7

  • Remove the thimble from the needle, releasing pressure, and use the thumb and forefinger to pull the needle and thread through. Tug slightly to secure the three stitches.
  • Continue taking three or four stitches at a time, inserting the needle about 1/8" ahead of the last three stitches.

Diagram 8

  • When there are about 5" of thread left, you're ready to end off. Make a small know close to the last hole the needle came through. Do this using your favorite method or by forming the thread into a loop and bringing the needle through it. Use your fingers to keep the know close to the hole (1/4" or less away) while putting the thread through.

Diagram 9

  • Insert the needle back into the hole and direct it away from the line of quilting, sliding it through the batting for about 1/2". Bring the needle through to the quilt top and tug the thread to bury the knot in the batting.
  • Once you've stitched along the marked straight lines, mark some curved ones for further practice.

Diagram 10

stitch.gif (1513 bytes)

Back to Current Quilting "How-To" Class.

 

QuiltTownUSA
QuiltTownUSA is a trademark of and is owned by Moon Over Mountain

All content © 2008 Moon Over Mountain