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Mini Stitching Tips Fabric
Selection
We recommend using 100% cotton for most projects because
it is easy to finger press and handles nicely. The yardage requirements in
our patterns are based on fabric with a useable width of 40". However, many
of the quilts can be made from assorted scraps.
Fabric Preparation
We suggest washing your fabrics before using them in your minis. Test all of
your fabrics to be sure they are colorfast.
Templates
Trace pattern
pieces on clear plastic. Use a permanent marker to list
the name of the block, total number of pieces, pattern letter
and grainline on each template. If the instructions call for an R,
for example BR, the B template must be reversed before tracing.
Pieced Patterns
Unless otherwise noted, our patterns include 1/4" seam
allowances. The solid line is the cutting line and the broken line is the
sewing line. For machine piecing, make the template with the seam allowance. Trace around the template
on the right side of the fabric. For hand piecing, make the template without the seam
allowance. Trace the template on the wrong side of the fabric
flipping all directional
(asymmetrical) templates before tracing and add a 1/4" seam allowance as you cut.
Foundation-pieced Patterns
Foundation piecing is a method for making even the smallest blocks with a high degree of
accuracy. For each foundation, trace all of the lines and numbers onto paper,
muslin or lightweight non-fusible interfacing. You will
need one foundation for each block or part of a block. The
solid line is the stitching line and the broken line is the cutting line. The fabric
pieces you select do not have to be cut precisely. Be generous when cutting fabric pieces
as excess fabric will be trimmed away after sewing. Your goal is to cut a piece that
covers the numbered area and extends into surrounding areas after seams are stitched.
Generally, fabric pieces should be large enough to extend 1/2" beyond the seamline on
all sides before stitching. For very small sections, or sections without angles, 1/4"
may be sufficient. Select a short stitch length, 12-14
stitches per inch.
Place fabric pieces on the unmarked side of the
foundation and stitch on the marked side. Center the first piece, right side up, over
section 1 on the unmarked side of the foundation. Hold the foundation up to a light to
make sure that the raw edges of the fabric extend at least 1/2" beyond the seamline
on all sides. Hold this first piece in place with a small dab of glue or a pin if
desired. Place the fabric for section 2 on the first piece, right sides together. Turn
the foundation over and sew on the line between 1 and 2, extending the stitching past the
beginning and end of the line by a few stitches on both ends. Trim the seam allowance to
1/8". Fold the position 2 piece back, right side up, and press. Continue adding
pieces to the foundation in the same manner until all
sections are covered and the block
is complete.
If you are using
a muslin or interfacing foundation, it will become a permanent part of the
quilt. If you are using paper, it will be removed. However, do not remove
the paper until the blocks have been joined together and at least one border
has been added, to avoid disturbing the stitches.
Use tweezers to carefully remove sections of the paper. The pieces
will be perforated from the stitching and can be gently pulled free.
Appliqué Patterns
A seam allowance is not included on appliqué pieces. The solid line is the sewing line.
Make a template and lightly trace around it on the right side of the fabric.
Then "eyeball" a 1/8" to 3/16" turn-under allowance when cutting the
fabric. Clip inside curves almost to the pencil line so they will turn under
smoothly as you stitch.
Marking Fabric
We suggest using silver or white marking tools for dark fabrics and fine line pencils for
light fabrics. Always use a sharp pencil and a light touch. Lay a piece of fine-grained
sandpaper under the fabric to keep it from slipping while you mark
it.
Hand Sewing
Use a thin, short needle ("sharp") to ensure a flat seam. Sew only on the marked sewing line
using small, even stitches.
Needleturn Appliqué
Pin an appliqué piece in position on the background fabric. Using thread to match the
appliqué piece, thread a needle with a 15" to 18" length and knot one end. Turn
under the allowance and bring the needle from the wrong side of
the background fabric up through the fold on the marked line of the appliqué piece. Push
the needle through the background fabric, catching a few threads, and come back up through
the background fabric and the appliqué piece on the marked line close to the first
stitch. Use the point of the needle to smooth under the allowance and make
another stitch in the same way. Continue needleturning and stitching until the piece is
completely sewn to the background fabric. To reduce bulk, do not
stitch where one appliqué piece will be overlapped by another.
Machine Sewing
Set the stitch length to 14 stitches per inch.
Cut a length of masking tape or moleskin foot pad about
1/4" x 2". Place a clear plastic ruler under the presser foot to the left of the
needle aligning the right edge of the ruler 1/4" from the
point of the needle along the throat plate. Stick the masking tape or
moleskin in place at the ruler's edge. Feed fabric under the needle, touching this guide.
When directions call for you to
start or stop stitching 1/4" from edges, as for set-in pieces, backstitch to
secure the seam.
Pressing
Press seams toward the darker of the two fabrics. Press abutting
seams in opposite directions whenever possible. Use a dry iron and press carefully, as
little blocks are easy to distort.
Making Bias Strips
Most miniature work requires bias strips of 25" or less. Begin with an 18"
fabric square. Lay your clear plastic ruler diagonally across the square, and cut from
corner to corner. Cut a bias strip the width you require, measuring from the diagonal cut.
This strip will be 25". Additional diagonal cuts will decrease in length. Cut as many
strips as are required for your pattern.
Mitering
Corners
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mitered borders, the pattern allows extra length on each border strip. Stitch each border
to the quilt top, beginning, ending, and backstitching each seamline 1/4" from the
edge of the quilt top. After all borders have been attached in this manner, miter one
corner at a time. With the quilt top lying right side down, lay one border over the other.
Draw a straight line at a 45° angle from the inner corner to the outer corner, as shown. |
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| Reverse
the positions of the borders and mark another straight line from corner to corner, in the
same manner. Place
the borders, right sides together. With marked seamlines carefully matched and pinned,
stitch from the outer edge to the inner corner, backstitching at the seamline. Open the
mitered seam to make sure it lies flat, trim excess fabric, and press. |
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FINISHING
Marking Quilting Designs
Simple
designs can be cut from adhesive-backed shelf paper. They’ll stick and re-stick
several times. Masking tape can be used to mark grids. Remove the tape when you’re
not quilting to avoid leaving a sticky residue. Mark lightly with pencils; thick lines
that won’t go away really stand out on a small quilt.
Batting
Use
a low-loft or very thin batting. Layer the quilt sandwich as follows: backing, wrong side
up; batting; quilt top, right side up. Baste or pin the layers together.
Quilting
Very
small quilts can be lap-quilted without a hoop. Larger ones can be quilted in a hoop or
small frame. Use a short, thin needle (between) and small stitches that will be in scale
with the little quilt. Thread the needle with a single strand of thread and knot one end.
Insert the needle through the quilt top and batting (not the backing) 1/2" away from
where you want to begin quilting. Gently pull the thread to pop the knot through the top
and bury it in the batting. Quilt as desired.
BINDING
Method
#1:
| For
most straight-edged miniature quilts, a single-fold binding is an attractive, durable, and
easy finish. NOTE: If your quilt has curved or
scalloped edges, binding strips must be cut on the bias of the fabric. Sew the binding
strips together with diagonal seams; trim and press the seams open. |
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| Trim
one end of the strip at a 45° angle. Press one long edge of the binding strip 1/4"
toward the wrong side. Starting with the trimmed end, position the binding strip, right
sides together, on the quilt top, aligning the raw edge of the binding with the bottom
edge of the quilt top. Leaving approximately 2" of the binding strip free, and
beginning at least 3 inches from one corner, stitch the binding to the bottom of the quilt
with a 1/4" seam allowance, measuring from the edge of the binding and quilt top. |
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| When
you reach a corner, stop the stitching line exactly 1/4" from the edge of the quilt
top. Backstitch, clip threads, and remove the quilt from the machine. Fold the binding up
and away, creating a 45° angle, as shown. |
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| Fold
the binding down as shown, and begin stitching at the edge. |
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| Continue stitching around the quilt to within 2" of
the starting point. Lay the binding flat against the quilt, overlapping the beginning end.
Open the pressed edge on each end and fold the end of the binding at a 45° angle against
the angle on the beginning end of the binding. Finger press the fold. |
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| Trim
1/2" beyond the fold line. Place the ends of the binding right sides together and
stitch with a 1/4" seam allowance. Finger press the seam allowance open. Place the binding flat against the quilt and finish
stitching it to the quilt. Trim the batting and backing even with the edge of the quilt
top. Fold the binding over the edge of the quilt, and blindstitch the folded edge to the
back, covering the seamline. |
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Method
#2:
Cut 4 binding strips as directed in the pattern. Press one long edge of each binding strip
1/4" toward the wrong side. Center a pressed strip on one side of the quilt, right
sides together, aligning the raw edges. Stitch the strip to the quilt with a 1/4"
seam allowance. Trim the binding ends even with the edge of the quilt.
Trim
the backing and batting even with the edge of the quilt along that side. Fold the binding
over the edge of the quilt and blindstitch the folded edge to the back, covering the seam
line. Repeat for the opposite side of the quilt.
Center
and stitch a pressed strip to one remaining side of the quilt. Trim the ends of the strip
1/4" beyond the edge of the quilt top.
Trim
the backing and batting even with the edge of the quilt top. Fold the ends of the binding
strip 1/4" toward the wrong side. Fold the binding toward the back, as before, and
blindstitch it to the back of the quilt. Stitch the ends closed. Repeat for the remaining
side of the quilt.
Sign
Your Quilt
Small quilts are revered by collectors, and the little quilts we make today will be
treasured by our families and friends. Using embroidery, cross-stitch, or permanent
marker, write your name and other important data like your city, the date the quilt was
completed, and for whom the quilt was made on a label and stitch it to the quilt. Someone
will be glad you did!
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